Belknap Bluegrass hammer restored- used properly

Another very satisfying hammer restoration. 

The stamped Belknap clover worn from years of service

and

despite the amount of use the face and claw were in EXCELLENT condition.

obviously the owner used this hammer to its proper purpose. too many people use a carpentry hammer like this for demolitions work (we are all guilty of that at least every now and then, myself included), but this just destroys the tool. this is one of those situations i can only hope the next owner will treat this striker as well as the first did.

Belknap Bluegrass hammer used properly, history is still evident in the cheeks.

Restored ball peen hammer with rubberized handle coating

I am never short of hammers waiting to be restored in my house

so

when i decided to add a dedicated ball peen hammer to my leather making toolbox i merely had to extend my arm to grab one. 

i picked out a perfect size and went on to polishing the peen, cheeks and head. i did leave the necks unpolished. cleaned of debris and rust but natural. 

 i do really like a little bit of color on the strikers to help it stand out on a cluttered work bench. orange has always been my color of choice for this. 

grip is important so for my non-octagonal hammer handles, i do like to add some sort of a grip coating. 

in this case, i thought i would try something new. i used a easy to get undercoating rubberized spray. the same material used to deaden traveling vehicle sounds and to apply to wheel wells.

i was really quite surprised how well this felt in the hand. the surface is smooth yet there is a sort of tack to the feel. i do sand in a notch toward the bottom of the handle that my pinky finger fits into, but even with out that i think i would still have the same confident grip. 

another nice element to this coating is that it is flexible. this means when the material hits something else it doesn't just chip away. it moves with the dents. of coarse it does come off with wear and enough pressure will remove it but is more durable than straight paint.

sometimes my experiments don't pan out but i am pleased to say that this one did.

rivets beware. 

Plumb 16 ounce claw hammer shipping off to Alberta

Just shipped this beauty of a 16 ounce Plumb claw hammer to Alberta.

restored 16 ounce Plumb claw hammer

I took this photo as to show the mirrored surface of the slightly bellied head i formed when restoring this striker against the textured, historically untouched cheeks and shoulders. 

I designate and promote these vintage hammer restores for "fine woodworking". I slightly belly the face of the head so one does not get that ring around the nail look.  the belly will allow the fastener to go just below the surface of the wood plane. I polish the head to show the quality of the steel and to show that this is a restore. there are many views on restoration out there and i really take to the camp of showing the history and putting the history into context (next to the refurbished parts).

Hammer crate - awl guide before drilling

There are certain steps that once the process becomes a habit then the quality of work improves.

using an awl before drilling is one of those steps i have embraced:

using an awl before drilling

working on fastening hinges is a perfect example of the value of the this tool.

the awl will make a precisely positioned hole that will guide the drill bit. with out that dedicated hole the drill bit could migrate a bit, offsetting the hole and then getting a cocked hinge. 

there is reward in precise mark making. 

Restored vintage hammer on octagonal hickory handle

Just about ready to hand off a restored vintage hammer head that was hung on a octagonal american hickory handle.

the there something about the density of the steel in this head. a bit weightier than others this size.

restored vintage hammer 

the weight does not make it feel top heavy though. 

this striker will excel at a shorter swing that can drive hard.

this will be given to a father for his birthday. a great gift if i may say so myself.

Sanding axe and hatchet handles

One of the steps before hanging any tool is to sand the handle down.

hickory is by far my favorite wood to use on all of my striking tools. one of the characteristics is the fibers can have some texture to them. this creates a friction on the hand and leaves channels that the paint can flow under the masking tape (leaving tributaries of color).

depending on the handle some take more sanding than others.

here is a slightly more extreme case of before and after sanding

a slightly more extreme case to show the before and after necessity of sanding tool handles.

a sanded handle will perform better in the hand and show off the grain of the wood so much better.

12 of 19 hammers

Progress so sloooooow,

trying to squeeze in hammers every minute between work, spring house work (on the house and in the gardens) and the activities of the boys' last 2 weeks of school.

i am either going to get some work done or spontaneously combust.

it is a 50/50 at this moment.

hammers lined up for the next step in restoring

i keep the hammers lined up in order as i work on them. this keeps the process organized when i must constantly step away to handle other responsibilities. i can come back at any time and know where i left off.

Display your tools

As i have preached before, tools have the potential to be a real extension of ourselves: both physically and past the physical. through the tool we command the difficult and fulfill our potential.

there are two types of tools in my small mind, both are worthy of displaying:

1 = those tools of historical/personal significance, but are too dangerous to use so must be retired. for example grandfathers axe that has a crack through the eye.

these tools when displayed act as a portrait of an admired life or trait.

2 = the tools are those that have significance because the represent a personal feat or represent the potential we have when we set our mind and hands to it.

a hammer and a hatchet shipping crate in hanging mode

above i have two milestones in crates. the hammer though is one i have been using and is an experiment that keeps on running. that particular hammer is a turn of the century hammer that had a pretty bad chip in it. these are the types of hammers with a hard steel skin over a softer core. the chip told me that the outer skin was a good steel (it chipped rather than mushroomed). i decided to see what would happen if i were to re-mill the striking face until the chip was entirely gone. this would mean thinning up the outer skin. the only criteria i would put to this experiment is that i would use it for fine woodworking and light general house work. it is going on some time now and i have had ZERO indications of failure. 

i keep this hammer hanging to remind me to challenge knowledge and to keep this tool visible so i don't forget to keep the challenge going.

to my wife's dismay, there are many of such displays in our small home.

i do believe guests find it entertaining and i am sure when the boys have friends over it is something to behold.

placement wise this is what one would see while on their way to the bathroom.

Restored plumb hammers and more on etsy

In a mad dash to post 5 more restored vintage hammers on the etsy shop before i go to work.

always feel some accomplishment when i hit the "publish" button.

restored no nome hammer

restored arrow hammer

restored plumb hammer

restored "drop forge" hammer

restored plumb rip hammer

restored 16 ounce vintage plumb claw hammer

Today i was only able to post on etsy one restored hammer.

the writing and photos took longer then i had expected, much longer.

i wanted to take photos of it on the bench where it was restored on.

also wanted to have it in relationship to where it would be worked on.

these vintage hammers are excellent tools. they have a tangible and intangible presence of performance.

as of now i am mostly keeping to the bench workhorse of the 16 ounce claw. 

these tools are designed for fine woodworking, but can confidently be used for any general house task

designed for 16 ounce hammers.

restored 16 ounce plumb hammer  in shipping crate

 the cheeks of the hammer show us its history.

i would never want to deny the tools past by trying to make it new again.

i want it to be a new "vintage" tool.

i have two motivations for promoting restored vintage hammers. 

1. the quality and performance of vintage steel heads

2. how perfect octagonal hickory handles are. 

someday i will go into long rants on the value of these handles.

contrasting the cheeks are the re-milled head.

re-milled to give it a slight belly and to show the quality of the steel.

i have kept the steel removal to a minimum. i want to keep that hard steel skin as thick as possible.

the claw poll to the eye is also milled smooth.

it adds symmetry to the aesthetics and really shows off the steel.

below i felt confident with the gun sight paint scheme and how it lines up with the claw. 

the little bit of flash will also keep the tool a bit more visible on that crowded woodworking bench.

Smoking hammer crate

With all challenges of the last week past but not forgotten, 

today still ends up being a wednesday in disguise as a friday.

time to do some shop work:

sharing a cigar with a restored hammer. i think there was appreciation.

this late afternoon i will hinge and stain the restored hammer crates.

if i get this done then tomorrow (a day off) i can add the crate flash, photograph the final product and post on etsy, the hammers. 

this is long over due.

Hammer shipping crates

There are just under a dozen restored vintage hammers that are waiting for shipping crates to be built.

a simple process that of course i had to make more difficult.

i wanted to keep to the same general aesthetic, yet add some variety. a hammer crate that was a variant of the mallet/axe/hatchet shipping crate.

i think that an answer is forthright:

these crates will not have a hinged, horizontally opening door like the mallets

but a vertically opening panel hinge at the bottom three slats (sort of like an upside down top hinged memo pad).

11 hammers stripping

It is that kind of a party here.

the clear coat just hit the sweet zone between tacky and dry. 

now is the best time to remove the masking. 

if i were to wait any longer i would have to cut a line where the tape meets the finish.

this speeds up the work and sacrifices nothing for quality.

hammers with paint and clear coat waiting to be stripped. 

this is a good time as the final looks becomes apparent.

i should stress that it is good because my expectations are being met.

hammer's paper removed, next to go is the tape

 in 24-48 hours (more to the 48 hour side) i will start the long oil on the bare wood sections.

where the head visually meets the handle the oil from the eye wood soaking is still evident.

i am very pleased with the wood of the handles, after oiling i am hoping that others will agree.

hammer masking removed, next they need oiling

Vinegar bath - sci fi horror still

Over a dozen rusty hammers later,

trying to sort out the title of the sci fi horror movie this vinegar bath came out of.

you just know that some creature bred in this primordial ooze is going to be all jacked up and try to take over humanity!

i dare you to stick your finger in that hole!

do it!!

Linseed oil the hammers eye and keep history exposed

A few thoughts racinating from the simple act of hammer restoration:

after time all wood will dry out and shrink, starting at the ends. for safety reasons alone it is so important to condition the eye wood in a soak in linseed oil so the head doesn't come loose.

(i paint the tail end to keep it sealed, but if you persuasion is for absolutely no flash then a soak at both ends does the job)

beyond safety, 

a properly cared for tool will act as a record to your value.

the absolute best tools are those that have helves worn smooth by use of the owners hand. 

conditioned wood worn from the hand is how the handle mirrors the patina from oil on the steel to show a complete description of how the tool was cared for and how much valued work was achieved. 

the longer the tool is cared for the more time is spent with the tool.

a simple glance at the tool will show your history.

and for all of those that "make" will be able to decide, right there, where in the ranks you stand.

not sure where to start with describing this cobble job but i will jump to the end

and say, "probably not safe"

(more than two wedges, cracks in different directions and chunks of wood missing)

 

The first step to the restoration process is to drill out the handle in the eye.

actually i cut of the handle (about 1/4" from the head) so i can drill from both sides of the eye.

when i first saw this, i couldn't help but to think damn, this is going to break a drill bit.

fortunately it did not.

Modified handles

I was removing a half a dozen handles to get ready for vinegar bath 

and

i had to take a photo of this vintage rip hammer handle before it is never to be seen again.

i actually respect the effort when others have a go at improving the grip of a handle.

to me it shows the owner's personal style and his/her individual desire to make the tool better.

this was a sort of drilled hole and countersink technique.

the painted red handle was actually striking and gave it a presence. the paint was wearing very nicely.

the tape on the end was there to protect it from when it was used as a mallet.

(a hammer handle should not be used as a club, 

however the reality of the work site can demand some dual usage of a rip hammer )

Cutting wedges for hanging hammers

The handles came in record time, just perfect for my day off.

when the handles come in the wax finish needs to be removed. also, there needs to be some shaping of the angles. after the shaping i will sand the hickory into a smoother state.

this is just the pre-hanging handle work. there will be more sanding before painting the flash.

in the process of hanging one of the chores is cutting wedges

Arrow hammer rehung

Used my last 14 inch octagonal handle today whilst waiting for my order to arrive.

18 more 14"ers coming soon.

i never use epoxy, but i do use a wood glue on the soft wood wedge.

the not only does it give that extra bond but allows that wedge to be soft enough to get in all the nooks and crannies of the handle cut.

this makes a best fit.

i know when i have too many projects, life events and obscene work load when i thought i had already ordered the handles but in all reality had NOT.

Restoring vintage hammers

Hammers are lined up and really are just needing to be hung.

as with all of my restored tools i want to keep the history of the tool present in the final product.

for this lot of hammers i have focused on re-milling the head and the claw poll up to the eye; while leaving the cheeks textured as i discovered them.

by the level of polish it will allow one to see the quality of steel 

and

 support my efforts to have a tool that looks and feels from our history,  but beyond the "old and tired".

the steel of these are very good. to be admired and enjoyed.

hammers have two functions: constructing and deconstructing.

for vintage hammers, i believe them to be best for finer woodworking projects.

i would leave the rough construction and deconstruction projects for the new titanium hammers or 

crap hammers whose life is best temporary. 

i leave a slight belly on all heads.

this will allow the nail to go below the surface of the plane that one is driving it into.