Linseed oil the hammers eye and keep history exposed

A few thoughts racinating from the simple act of hammer restoration:

after time all wood will dry out and shrink, starting at the ends. for safety reasons alone it is so important to condition the eye wood in a soak in linseed oil so the head doesn't come loose.

(i paint the tail end to keep it sealed, but if you persuasion is for absolutely no flash then a soak at both ends does the job)

beyond safety, 

a properly cared for tool will act as a record to your value.

the absolute best tools are those that have helves worn smooth by use of the owners hand. 

conditioned wood worn from the hand is how the handle mirrors the patina from oil on the steel to show a complete description of how the tool was cared for and how much valued work was achieved. 

the longer the tool is cared for the more time is spent with the tool.

a simple glance at the tool will show your history.

and for all of those that "make" will be able to decide, right there, where in the ranks you stand.

not sure where to start with describing this cobble job but i will jump to the end

and say, "probably not safe"

(more than two wedges, cracks in different directions and chunks of wood missing)

 

The first step to the restoration process is to drill out the handle in the eye.

actually i cut of the handle (about 1/4" from the head) so i can drill from both sides of the eye.

when i first saw this, i couldn't help but to think damn, this is going to break a drill bit.

fortunately it did not.

Modified handles

I was removing a half a dozen handles to get ready for vinegar bath 

and

i had to take a photo of this vintage rip hammer handle before it is never to be seen again.

i actually respect the effort when others have a go at improving the grip of a handle.

to me it shows the owner's personal style and his/her individual desire to make the tool better.

this was a sort of drilled hole and countersink technique.

the painted red handle was actually striking and gave it a presence. the paint was wearing very nicely.

the tape on the end was there to protect it from when it was used as a mallet.

(a hammer handle should not be used as a club, 

however the reality of the work site can demand some dual usage of a rip hammer )

Cutting wedges for hanging hammers

The handles came in record time, just perfect for my day off.

when the handles come in the wax finish needs to be removed. also, there needs to be some shaping of the angles. after the shaping i will sand the hickory into a smoother state.

this is just the pre-hanging handle work. there will be more sanding before painting the flash.

in the process of hanging one of the chores is cutting wedges

Arrow hammer rehung

Used my last 14 inch octagonal handle today whilst waiting for my order to arrive.

18 more 14"ers coming soon.

i never use epoxy, but i do use a wood glue on the soft wood wedge.

the not only does it give that extra bond but allows that wedge to be soft enough to get in all the nooks and crannies of the handle cut.

this makes a best fit.

i know when i have too many projects, life events and obscene work load when i thought i had already ordered the handles but in all reality had NOT.

Sencha cup

A serious need for dusting brought me to a red overglazed enameled sencha cup

i made in 1998.

i was given the opportunity to deviate from the formal designs and play with some ideas i wanted to see off paper.

IMPORTANT information on hygene

I wasn't asked the other day, " noble! how is it that you smell so good all the time"

eating potpouri, and drinking lucky tiger aftershave.

 with a little wd-40 between my toes.

Bathroom flowers - relieve yourself peacefully

Nothing like spring cleaning spawned on by family visiting.

with lochlann's b-day during the week family will come into town for the PARTY today.

nothing says "Welcome" like flowers in the bathroom.